A less is more lesson in how to make a classic dish sing
We’re Fanny and Greta, dear friends with deep backgrounds in sustainable food. This is a space for the food lovers, home cooks, would-be home cooks and anyone who needs a bit of inspiration and gentle guidance in their family kitchen.
Santa Anna•
April 3, 2025
The way Fanny’s dad taught her to make it, risotto should have a slightly toothy texture with the grains of rice feeling distinct, suspended in a loose creamy, brothy but still-binding liquid. Risotto should ideally not be a gloppy or starchy or dry or able to be formed into a sculpture (as much as your child might be charmed if it could). If you feel uncomfortable using wine in a dish for your little ones (totally understandable, though the alcohol evaporates in the cooking) just use a little splash of good-quality vinegar instead.
Also, a note on washing leeks. Why? Because leeks are DIRTY! There’s always all kinds of grit and grime hiding between the leaves that will ruin an otherwise lovely dish. The best way to clean leaks? Remove the outermost leaves, chop as you would for the recipe, and then add the chopped leek to the basket of a salad spinner (or a large strainer) and submerge in a bowl filled with cold water (they will instantly float to the surface). Gently agitate, allowing to soak for a total of 5–10 minutes, before lifting the basket up to discover that all that sand and dirt has magically collected at the bottom of the bowl. Ta-da!
Put your stock or broth (7 cups) into a pot, and bring it to a simmer on the stove. Have a ladle handy.
In a large saucepan (or wide, heavy skillet), heat the olive oil (2 Tbsp) and butter (2 Tbsp) over medium heat.
Add the onion (1) and leek (2–3) and fennel (1 bulb) (if using) and a big pinch of sea salt, and cook over medium-low heat just tender, about five minutes, without allowing it to brown.
Add the rice (1 ½ cups), and stir until it starts to (ever so slightly) color. About 5 minutes.
Add the wine (½ cup) and stir until it's absorbed.
Add the warm stock, a couple of ladles at a time. The stock should just cover the rice and should be lightly bubbling.
Stir the stock and rice together to make sure nothing is sticking to the bottom of the pan and cook uncovered at a simmer.
When the rice is just tender all the way through but still a little toothy, usually 25 minutes, it's done. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Add another ladleful of stock to the rice. Stir in the parsley (2 Tbsp), black pepper, lemon zest (1 Tbsp) and juice (1 Tbsp), and Parmesan (½ cup), and remove from the heat. The mixture should be creamy. Serve promptly.
You can begin up to several hours before serving if prepping ahead is easiest for your family timeline. Just cook through step 4 (about 15 minutes). The rice should still be pretty firm when you remove it from the heat, and there should not be any liquid in the pan. Spread it in an even layer in the pan, and keep it off the heat until you resume cooking. Fifteen minutes before serving, resume cooking as instructed.
